High Performance Competitions

What are HP Competitions?

HP Competitions are an important component of the CEC’s High Performance Program. These invitation-only events are designed to create a step between Senior Nationals and International competitions. The primary objectives of HP comps are:

  1. Present a competition environment that represents the level of international competitions.
  2. Provide an additional domestic opportunity to earn CNR points.
  3. Provide a development opportunity (benchmarking) for athletes, staff and other CEC officials.

Who is invited to attend HP Competitions?

Invitations for HP Competitions are according to the criteria and process detailed in High Performance Program document (CEC-HP-01).


2025 HP Competition

Dates: January 24-27, 2025
Venue: Richmond Olympic Oval
Disciplines: Boulder, Lead, Speed
Categories: Senior Men, Senior Women

Registrations: coming soon
Volunteers Sign up: coming soon

Format:

  • Boulder: total of 8 problems, divided into two rounds.
    • Round 1 (5 boulders) will be set at a NACS level, Round 2 (3 boulders) will be set at a WC Qualification level
  • Lead: total of 3 routes, divided into two rounds
    • Round 1 (2 routes) will be set at a NACS level, Round 2 (1 route) will be set at a WC Qualificaiton level
  • Speed: competition format including Qualification and Knockout round

 

Boulder / Lead Workshop sessions:
Time will be provided for the athletes to work on each climb over and over again, with the help of the routesetting team. These sessions will take place after each round, and following an initial debrief by the routesetters.

Speed Coached session:
Two elite Speed coaches will assist athletes in refining their skills and practice their runs.

Guests:

  • Boulder Head Setter: Jeremy Ho (USAC)
  • Lead Head Setter: Mike Bockino (USAC)

CEC Teams:

  • Event Lead: Sebastian Powell
  • Jury President: Paul Hughes
  • Head Judge: Babak Zia
  • Setters: Pedro Corral, Victor Fleutre, Hayden Jones

 

Preliminary Schedule

January 24, 2025 (Day 1)

Men's Boulder ISO 7:30am - 8:30am
Men's Boulder Round #1 (5on 5off - 5 boulders) 9:00am - 11:50am
Women's Lead Warmup 10:30am
Women's Lead Round #1 (Flashed - 2 routes) 12:30pm - 3:00pm
Men's Boulder Workshop 1:00pm - 4:00pm
Women's Lead Workshop 3:30pm - 6:30pm
January 25, 2025 (Day 2)
Women's Boulder ISO 7:30am - 8:30am
Women's Boulder Round #1 (5on 5off - 5 boulders) 9:00am - 11:50am
Men's Lead Warmup 10:30am
Men's Lead Round #1 (Flashed - 2 routes) 12:30pm - 3:00pm
Speed Workshop/Practice 10:30am 1:00pm
Women's Boulder Workshop 1:00pm - 4:00pm
Speed Competition (Qualifiers and Finals) 3:30pm - 6:30pm
Men's Lead Workshop 3:30pm - 6:30pm
January 26, 2025 (Day 3)
Men's Boulder ISO 7:30am - 8:30am
Men's Boulder Round #2 (5on 5off - 3 boulders) 9:00am - 11:30am
Women's Lead Warmup 10:30am
Speed Coached Session 11:00am - 3:00pm
Women's Lead Round #2 (Flashed - 1 route) 12:00pm - 2:00pm
Men's Boulder Workshop 12:30pm - 4:00pm
Women's Lead Workshop 3:00pm - 6:00pm
January 27, 2025 (Day 3)
Women's Boulder ISO 7:30am - 8:30am
Women's Boulder Round #2 (5on 5off - 3 boulders) 9:00am - 11:30am
Men's Lead Warmup 10:30am
Men's Lead Round #2 (Flashed - 1 route) 12:00pm - 2:00pm
Women's Boulder Workshop 12:30pm - 4:00pm
Men's Lead Workshop 3:00pm - 6:00pm