Speed Climbing Information

Speed Climbing will be a stand alone medal event at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games. CEC is committed to building a unique Speed Program to identify and support athletes in this exciting discipline.

This page contains references from both National and International historical data, plus some performance projections towards Paris 2024 and beyond. Additional information on training and development opportunities will be added over time. The current High Performance Program for Speed is detailed HERE.

 

SPEED RECORDS

Current Canadian Senior Speed Records

Female Canadian Record:

7.99s – Alannah Yip

Established – Olympic Games,Tokyo, Japan, August 6/ 2021

 

 

 

 

Male Canadian Record:

 

5.48s – Ethan Pitcher

Established – IFSC World Cup, Chamonix (FRA), July 7, 2023

 

 

 

 

Canadian Youth & Junior Records

CATEGORY ATHLETE TIME ESTABLISHED
Junior Male Dylan Le 6.25 2023 Youth World Championships, Seoul (KOR)
Junior Female Teagan Chow 9.46 2023 Youth World Championships, Seoul (KOR)
Youth A Male Dylan Le 6.22 2022 Youth World Championships, Dallas (USA)
Youth A Female Reena Gao 9.04 2022 Youth World Championships, Dallas (USA)
Youth B Male Evan Lau 7.68 2022 Youth World Championships, Dallas (USA)
Youth B Female Sienna Chow 9.47 2022-2023 Speed National Championships, Montréal (QC)

CANADA Record Homologation Process

To be considered a Canadian Record, the following minimum conditions must be met:

  1. The time must be accomplished in one of the following events:
    1. Olympic or Pan American Games
    2. IFSC sanctioned competition (Senior or Youth)
    3. Continental sanctioned competition (Pan Am, NACS etc)
    4. CEC Sanctioned event (High Performance Competition, National Championship, Regional Championship) or equivalent (i.e., USAC Nationals)
    5. Select World and Master Events (World Games, Beach Games etc)
  2. Athlete must be a Canadian Citizen
  3. Speed wall on which the competition is taking place must have been approved by an appointed CEC, National or International Federation representative using the following conditions:
    1. Speed Wall is built to IFSC standard (does not need to be homologated)
    2. Using IFSC certified (stamped) Speed Holds (training holds are not permitted)
    3. Using an approved electronic timing device
    4. For more information on the CEC approval process, please contact hpd@climbingcanada.ca 

 

TIME REFERENCES

The table below provides several tangible references for age and gender categories. They are intended to help Athletes, Coaches and PTSOs to measure athlete development and to use as reference in creating training and competition objectives. **These are not intended to be used as the only benchmark in athlete development assessments. Athlete development is not always linear and several other factors must be considered.

CEC References

2024 Speed Minimum Performance Times

Category HPP Minimum Performance Times Speed Nationals Recommended Minimum Performance Times Speed Nationals Automatic Performance Time Youth World Championships Qualifying Times
15m Wall 15m Wall 10m Wall 15m Wall 15m Wall
Senior Women 8.281 9.20 6.13 8.781 n/a
Senior Men 6.193 7.10 4.73 6.393 n/a
Junior Women n/a 9.30 6.2 8.8 10.74
Junior Men n/a 7.20 4.8 6.7 7.9
Youth A Women n/a 10.70 7.13 9.7 11.24
Youth A Men n/a 8.60 5.73 7.6 8.9
Youth B Women n/a 11.20 7.46 10 11.74
Youth B Men n/a 9.10 6.06 7.9 9.9

*This is the minimum time required IN ADDITION to meeting all other High Performance Program selection criteria published HERE. This time must be achieved in an official competition using an electronic timing device.

**This is the recommended minimum time to be competitive at Nationals.

Minimum Performance Times – 2023 YWC Selections

The table below outlines the minimum times required in addition to finishing top 3 in the category. These times may be achieved at any time up until July 25th/ 2023. Minimum Performance Times must be verified via published result table or via video submission.

YWC minimum performance times are based on historical data from past YWCs plus an additional time buffer. In 2023 we will use times required to finish top 10 in qualifying at Dallas 2022 YWC. These times are more consistent across categories than top 16. The buffer in creating the minimum times will be increased t accommodate for this faster benchmark.

Youth B: Dallas YWC Benchmark + 2.00s

Youth A: Dallas YWC Benchmark + 1.25s

Junior: Dallas YWC Benchmark + 0.75s

Minimum Times to Top 10 in Qualifying Youth B Female Youth B Male Youth A Female Youth A Male Junior Female Junior Male
2022 YWC – Dallas 9.79 7.27 9.34 6.30 9.55 6.47
2023 Minimum Performance Times – YWC Team Selection
Youth B Female Youth B Male Youth A Female Youth A Male Junior Female Junior Male
11.79 9.27 10.59 7.55 10.30 7.22

Olympic Projection References

In the lead up to Paris 2024, where Speed will be a standalone discipline, CEC wishes to provide a guideline for athletes focusing on speed training. The below times are there as a suggestion of what athletes should be tracking toward. In no way should this be construed as qualification times, but rather performance indicators.

MEN Time Speed Nationals 2022 Time Aug 2022 Time Aug 2023 Time Aug 2024 Podium at OG
Paris 2024 6.10 5.90 5.40 5.20 5.00
LA 2028 8.00 6.80 6.40 6.00 5.00
Brisbane 2032 10.00 8.00 7.50 7.00 5.10

 

WOMEN Time Speed Nationals 2022 Time Aug 2022 Time Aug 2023 Time Aug 2024 Podium at OG
Paris 2024 8.10 7.80 7.00 6.85 6.75
LA 2028 10.00 8.70 8.10 7.80 6.60
Brisbane 2032 12.00 11.70 11.10 9.80 6.50

 

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2023-2024 Speed National Championships
Senior Finals

2023-2024 Speed National Championships
Senior Finals
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